General repair
Garage Door Repair
Tell us what the door is doing and we'll get it in front of someone who can fix it — with the price agreed before the work starts.
See what's includedRepairs across Mobile
Garage door repair · Mobile, AL
Salt air takes a Mobile door apart from the bottom up.
Salt air works on a Mobile door from the bottom up. Tell us what yours is doing and you'll see what failed and what it costs before work begins.
12 repairs coveredFree to askPrice before work
Do you cover Mobile?Yes — right across it
Oakleigh Garden District, Leinkauf, Old Dauphin Way, and the streets either side of them.
What can I get done?12 residential repairs
Springs, cables, openers, sensors, tracks, panels, seals, and full replacements.
What will it cost?Agreed before anything is touched
You hear what failed and what it costs first. Saying no at that point costs you nothing.
How fast?A person replies the same day
Ask before 5 p.m. on a weekday and you hear back that business day.
Why us for this door
Down here the hardware gives out before the door does.
Mobile eats the parts nobody looks at. Bottom brackets, cable ends and the fixings at the foot of the track corrode from the inside while the panels still look fine, and a door in Dauphin Island Parkway or out toward Dawes can be structurally tired years before it's ugly. Replacing a panel on rotten hardware is money spent twice.
Which is why the first thing anyone should do is look at the fixings, not the paint. Send us what the door is doing and roughly where you are, and you get a straight account of what has gone and what it costs to put back, agreed with you before the work happens.
Get my door fixedWhere we work
How close to the water are you?
Spring Hill and Cottage Hill age differently from Dauphin Island Parkway. Name your part of town so the corrosion question gets asked before anyone quotes.
- Oakleigh Garden DistrictNineteenth-century houses on small lots near downtown with narrow streets and separate outbuildings at the rear rather than attached garages.
- LeinkaufA midtown streetcar-era district of frame houses on modest lots, where the garage sits at the back and the drive beside the house takes one car at a time.
- Old Dauphin WayThe largest of the midtown historic areas, mostly frame houses under heavy oak canopy with tight curbside parking and single-file side drives.
- Spring HillLarger lots on the high ground west of downtown, with long shaded drives and garages set well back from the road.
- Dauphin Island ParkwayLower-lying south Mobile housing close to the water, where salt-laden air reaches door hardware directly and standing water at the slab is common.
- Cottage HillPostwar and later subdivisions west of midtown with attached two-car garages, short paved drives, and wide doors on open frontages.
- DawesNewer subdivisions on the western edge of the city with wide double doors facing open ground and little shelter from storm wind.
Just outside Mobile?
Plenty of the work we take isn't in Mobile proper. These are the towns around it and what tends to be different about a door there.
- DaphneAcross the bay, where salt air gets into springs, hinges, and track hardware faster than it does inland. Rust on the moving parts is worth mentioning on the first call.
- FairhopeOlder cottages near the bay sitting alongside newer subdivisions, so the door could be a narrow single or a wide double. Tell us which, and whether it is wood or steel.
- FoleyCoastal-side building where a lot of the newer doors carry a wind rating, and a crushed panel has to be replaced with something that keeps it.
- SaralandNorth of the city where lots run bigger and detached shops are common, so the door that failed is not always the one on the house.
- TheodoreSouthwest of the city with long drives and a mix of older homes and newer builds. Say where a technician can park and how far it is from there to the door.
Don't see your street or your town? These are the places where the housing changes enough to change the job — not the edge of where we go, and not a promise about your exact address either. We take work across Mobile and the wider Alabama area, and the address you send is what actually gets checked.Check my address
Repairs in Mobile
Pick by what the door is doing.
Springs and balance
Garage Door Spring Repair
If your door suddenly weighs a couple hundred pounds, a spring has almost certainly let go. Leave it down, keep everyone clear, and let someone with the right winding bars deal with it.
See what's included
Cables and drums
Garage Door Cable & Drum Repair
One corner sitting lower, or a cable hanging off its drum, means the lift system is out of balance. It wants looking at before the next cycle, not after.
See what's included
Tracks, rollers, hardware
Track, Roller & Hardware Repair
Grinding in the same spot, a door that shakes the whole wall, a roller creeping out of its track — all cheap to sort now, all expensive once the door comes off.
See what's included
Off-track and stuck
Off-Track & Stuck Door Repair
Every extra cycle bends another panel and drags more cable out of line. Leave it where it is, keep the opening clear, and get it stabilized properly.
See what's included
Openers
Garage Door Opener Repair
Motors take the blame for dead springs constantly. Worth knowing which one you've got before you buy an opener you didn't need.
See what's includedMobile guide
What tends to go wrong here.
Rust starts at the bottom fixtures and works its way up
Damp, salt-laden air off the bay finds the low wet parts of a door first: the bottom brackets, the ends of the bottom section, the lower run of track, and the cable where it winds onto the drum. Houses along Dauphin Island Parkway sit closest to that air, but midtown gets a steady dose of it too.
It's more than a cosmetic problem, because the bottom bracket is the fitting under full spring tension and the last one anybody should be loosening. If yours is flaking or the fasteners look eaten, say so and step away. Stiffening rollers usually show up as a juddering door long before it's obvious what's causing it.
Before the season turns, ask whether your door is braced
The garage door is the biggest opening in most Mobile houses, and in a serious blow that's where the pressure concentrates. If it fails, the wind is inside the building and working on the roof from underneath. That's the whole reason a coastal door is specified differently, with heavier bracing across the sections and stronger anchoring into the jamb.
Two things are worth knowing while the weather is calm. Does your door have horizontal struts across the back of the panels, and are the track brackets fixed into solid framing rather than trim? A technician can tell you where yours stands and whether reinforcement is worth doing, well before you need the answer.
Oaks and narrow midtown streets stop the van at the curb
In Oakleigh Garden District, Leinkauf and Old Dauphin Way the houses sit close together on small lots, the side drive takes one car at a time, and the garage is usually a separate building at the back. Spring Hill is roomier, but the drives run long and the oaks hang low over them.
Out at Cottage Hill and Dawes it's the reverse: an attached double garage, a short paved apron, and a wide door facing open ground. Neither is a problem. They simply take different amounts of time and different equipment, and knowing which one you have keeps that out of the surprise column.
A good Mobile request answers four questions
Where you are, how big the door is, how a vehicle reaches it, and what the door actually did. If there's visible rust, a bent track, or water standing where the door meets the slab, mention it. You don't have to work out which part failed; that's what the inspection is for, and guessing tends to cost people money.
Ground-level photos are plenty and nobody needs to be on a ladder. Send it before 5 p.m. on a weekday and a person gets back to you the same business day; after that it's the next business morning. The technician confirms the price with you before the work begins, and this site takes no payment at all.
Most common around Mobile
Know when to stop using the door.
Don't wait
Door will not close
The door stays open, stops, or will not begin closing.
What to do about itStop using the door
Broken torsion spring
A gap appears in the spring above the door or a loud bang precedes a heavy door.
What to do about itDon't wait
Blocked or misaligned safety sensors
Sensor lights blink or the door will not close from a remote.
What to do about itDon't wait
Opener does not operate
The opener is silent, hums, or runs without moving the door.
What to do about itBook it in
Pricing and written quote clarity
The customer wants scope, parts, labor, fees, and alternatives in writing.
What to do about itMobile questions
Asked before anyone books anything.
The door is stiff and slow going up. Is that just age?
Sometimes, but on the coast it's more often the rollers and hinges seizing as corrosion works into them. A door that has gone from smooth to reluctant over a season is telling you the moving parts are binding, and the opener is absorbing that extra effort every cycle. Don't grease your way past it. Tell us how long it has been getting worse and whether it groans in one particular spot.
It stops an inch off the floor and won't seal.
The opener has learned a travel limit that no longer matches the door, or something at the bottom is stopping it early. On a damp slab it's frequently a bottom seal that has swollen, flattened or filled with grit, so the door meets resistance sooner than the opener expects. Tell us whether you can see daylight along the bottom and whether water pools where the door lands.
The spring above the door snapped. How dangerous is this?
Dangerous enough to leave completely alone. A wound spring holds a lot of stored energy, and a rusted one can fail without warning while someone is near it. With the spring gone the door's full weight is on the cables and the bottom brackets. Keep everyone out of the opening, leave the door in whatever position it's in, and don't unbolt anything at the bottom corners.
My sensor lights flicker when it's raining hard. Why?
Damp getting into a corroded terminal or a cracked lens will do exactly that, and so will a bracket that has rusted loose and shifted the aim. The opener only knows the beam has gone, not why. Look at the mounting brackets and the wiring near the floor and tell us whether anything is stained or hanging loose. Don't tape the sensors together or short them out to stop the flicker.
The opener died during a power cut and hasn't worked since.
Check the obvious first: the breaker, the outlet, and whether the release cord got pulled while the power was off. If the trolley is still disconnected the motor will run and the door won't move. If the unit is entirely dead after the outage, a surge may have taken the board, which is a replace-or-repair conversation worth having properly. Tell us what the opener does now when you press the button.
How do I avoid being talked into a whole new door?
Ask for the scope and the price before work starts, which is how it runs here anyway. The technician explains what failed, what the repair involves, and what it costs, and you decide. If a full replacement genuinely is the sensible call on a corroded door, you should hear why in plain terms rather than as a foregone conclusion. Nothing is charged through this site.
Mobile, AL
Get a Mobile door looked at properly.
Describe the fault, point us at any rust you can see, and give us the cross streets. Scope and price come back to you before any work starts.