
General repair
Garage Door Repair
Tell us what the door is doing and we'll get it in front of someone who can fix it — with the price agreed before the work starts.
See what's includedGarage door repair · Scranton, PA
A Scranton garage door has a hard winter and a steep street. Tell us what yours is doing and see the fault and the price first.
Green Ridge, Hill Section, West Scranton, and the streets either side of them.
Springs, cables, openers, sensors, tracks, panels, seals, and full replacements.
You hear what failed and what it costs first. Saying no at that point costs you nothing.
Ask before 5 p.m. on a weekday and you hear back that business day.
Why us for this door
Heavy wet snow banked against the outside is a solid mass the opener can't detect. It pulls, the bottom section flexes, and either a cable jumps its drum or the panel deforms. The door was working before that press. Clearing the outside first costs nothing and prevents most of these calls.
An old single-car opening limits what can be put back in as well, so it gets measured before anything is ordered. Say what is against the door and how steep the street is. Scope and price are agreed with you before work.
Get my door fixedWhere we work
The Hill Section and East Mountain climb hard; Minooka and West Scranton run narrow and old. Say which is yours.
Plenty of the work we take isn't in Scranton proper. These are the towns around it and what tends to be different about a door there.
Don't see your street or your town? These are the places where the housing changes enough to change the job — not the edge of where we go, and not a promise about your exact address either. We take work across Scranton and the wider Pennsylvania area, and the address you send is what actually gets checked.Check my address
Repairs in Scranton

General repair
Tell us what the door is doing and we'll get it in front of someone who can fix it — with the price agreed before the work starts.
See what's included
Springs and balance
If your door suddenly weighs a couple hundred pounds, a spring has almost certainly let go. Leave it down, keep everyone clear, and let someone with the right winding bars deal with it.
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Cables and drums
One corner sitting lower, or a cable hanging off its drum, means the lift system is out of balance. It wants looking at before the next cycle, not after.
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Tracks, rollers, hardware
Grinding in the same spot, a door that shakes the whole wall, a roller creeping out of its track — all cheap to sort now, all expensive once the door comes off.
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Off-track and stuck
Every extra cycle bends another panel and drags more cable out of line. Leave it where it is, keep the opening clear, and get it stabilized properly.
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Openers
Motors take the blame for dead springs constantly. Worth knowing which one you've got before you buy an opener you didn't need.
See what's includedScranton guide
The damage rarely happens while it is snowing. It happens after, when a plow throws a bank of heavy wet snow across the apron, it packs down under its own weight, and then it freezes solid against the bottom of the door overnight. East Mountain holds it longest, sitting up above the rest of the city.
Press the button the next morning and the opener will heave at that wall of ice until something upstream fails. Clear the apron before you try the door, not after. If it has already groaned and stopped, leave it closed and tell us what you heard on that first attempt.
Green Ridge and the Hill Section both sit above downtown, and the garages there are often at the back of the lot down a narrow rear lane, or cut into the bank below the house. Minooka runs much the same way further south.
In winter those approaches are the last places to get cleared, and a service truck may not make it up to the opening at all. That doesn't change what is wrong with the door, but it does change the visit, so tell us how the garage is reached and what the surface is like today.
West Scranton has plenty of narrow single garages built long before the cars that use them now. The openings are tight, the space above the door is short, and a fair amount of the hardware is whatever was fitted originally.
When a door like that is past fixing, a stock replacement won't always drop straight in, and low headroom rules out some track and opener combinations. Before anyone talks you into a new door, measure the width of the opening and the space above it, and send both.
We want the cross streets, whether the garage is attached or detached, whether the opening takes one car or two, how it is reached once there is snow down, and what the door did: the point it stopped, the sound it made, and whether a vehicle is shut inside. Do not try to name the broken part.
Photos from the ground are genuinely useful, and a photo taken from a ladder isn't worth the risk. Send it before 5 p.m. local on a weekday and a person answers the same business day, and the technician agrees the scope and the price with you before starting.
Most common around Scranton
The door stays open, stops, or will not begin closing.
What to do about itA gap appears in the spring above the door or a loud bang precedes a heavy door.
What to do about itSensor lights blink or the door will not close from a remote.
What to do about itThe opener is silent, hums, or runs without moving the door.
What to do about itThe customer wants scope, parts, labor, fees, and alternatives in writing.
What to do about itScranton questions
Please don't. It refreezes within minutes and you end up with more ice than you started with, plus water in places you would rather it wasn't. Let the sun and the day get at the apron, chip the packed snow away from the base, and free the rubber by hand if you can reach it standing up. Then tell us what the opener did before you stopped.
Either the bottom seal has hardened and split, or the floor is no longer flat under it after a few winters of frost. Both are fixable and neither needs a new door. Tell us where the gap is, whether it runs the full width or sits at one corner, and how old the rubber looks.
Go and look at the spring on the shaft above the door. A break shows as a clean gap of a couple of inches in an otherwise continuous coil. If you find one, the door is now unbalanced and heavy, so leave it down, keep the car out from under the opening, and get somebody with winding bars to it.
Yes, gently, with a dry soft cloth or a barely damp one. A film of salt spray and grit on the lens is enough to scatter the beam and stop the door closing. While you are down there, check neither bracket has been knocked out of line by a shovel. Tell us whether cleaning them changed anything.
That usually means the door is getting harder to move rather than the opener getting weaker. Cold stiffens grease, hardens the seal, and makes worn rollers drag, and the opener simply reaches its limit sooner. Do not turn up the force setting to compensate. Tell us how the door feels when you lift it by hand.
Yes. The technician assesses the door, tells you what has failed, and sets out the scope and the price before starting. If you want it written down, ask, and you should get it. You can say no at that point, and there is no charge for using this site.
Scranton, PA
What was against the door, what it did, and your cross streets. You'll have the price before anyone starts work.